Raspberries
Raspberry Cultivation
Sites and Soils
- Full sun or partial shade (where plants are shaded no more than half a day)
- Sheltered from strong winds and avoid sites prone to late frosts
- Choose a site which has not grown fruit before (if this is unavoidable, add mycorrhizal fungi when planting)
- A well-drained, slightly acidic (PH 6.0-6.5) moist soil is ideal
- Growing in rows makes it easier to pick, support and weed the plants. They will soon spread to make a continuous row
Preparing the soil for planting
- Prepare a trench by digging out soil about 18" wide and 9" deep, removing weeds and stones and breaking up the soil
- Fork in a 3"-4" layer of garden compost of well-rotted manure
Planting
- Dig a hole big enough to accomodate the root ball and spread the roots out if possible
- Position canes and backfill with soil. Firm in gently
- Apply well-rotted manure or compost after planting and a dressing of general fertiliser (growmore or chicken pellets) in early spring
Distances
- Space plants 40cm-60cm (16"-24") apart
- Space rows 2m-3m (6.51-10') apart
Containers
- Raspberries are not suitable to grow in containers
Care of Raspberries During the Year
Winter
- Ensure long canes are securly tied
- February/early March, cut down the old fruited stems of Autumn fruiting varieties to ground level
Spring
- Keep weeds down by hand to aoid damaging the canes
- New canes will begin to grow from April. Remove any not required, or in the wrong place
- Cut off old stubs from canes planted previous Autumn
- Apply a mulch of organic compost or straw in May to keep weeds down and conserve moisture. Apply a general fertiliser
Summer
- Thin canes if crowded, leaving strongest intact. Aim to leave 12 canes per metre (3') for summer-fruiting raspberries, 10-12 for Autumn fruiting
- Tie in new growth to prevent wind damage
- Water well in hot weather
- Canes will start fruiting in their second year after planting
- Pick regularly in hot weather
- Remove damaged/fotten fruit promptly
- Netting may be necessary to protect fruit from birds
Autumn
- Harvest Autumn fruiting raspberries
- Complete all tying in of summer fruiting raspberries
- Leave canes of Autumn fruiting canes loosely supported until cutting fown in February/March
Support Systems for Raspberries
Summer Fruiting
- A post and wire system is ideal for a continuous row of raspberries
- Stout posts 2m-2.5m (6.5'-8') are driven into the ground space 5m-8m (16'-26') apart along the row
- Two tiers of galvanised wire should be fastened to the post at heights of 0.6m-1m (2'-3') and 1.4m-1.8m (5'-6')
- Secure the canes to the top wire at 7-10cm (3"-4") intervals
- In February trim the canes back to a height of 7cm (3") above the top wire. This removes any damage to cane tips
- Use twine, clips or soft jute string to tie canes into position
Autumn Fruiting
- These raspberries tend to produce a lot of cane so double post framework or "double fence" is a good system to keep the canes supported. This provides a parallel set of posts and wires either side of the crop and the canes growing in between them
- Where space is at a premium it is possible to plant raspberries in small clusters, e.g. two canes planted either side of a single supporting post